fashion month / 24-hour editfriday, 2 october 2026

after
dark.

rick owens turns the palais de tokyo pool into a runway for good witches. schiaparelli answers with a nightclub and the jacket worth wearing over jeans. two new vogue reviews, two ways to make an entrance.

01 / rick owens

a coven of good witches.

nicole phelps says rick owens renewed her faith in the fashion show ritual: a long ramp across the palais de tokyo pool, fountains on both sides, and a host of angels or good witches in robes made from upcycled industrial webbing. the lightness is the surprise, from parachute silk to crystal-dripping sandals. the tulle and elastic pieces are pure otherness, and she loved them for it.

rick owens spring 2027 look 6
look 6 · a huge, billowing floor-length gown illustrates the parachute-silk lightness phelps describes; the photo does not confirm this is the named clotilde dress.
rick owens spring 2027 look 30
look 30 · a cropped, washed gray-blue jacket over wide trousers illustrates the denim daywear phelps calls more down-to-earth but still distinctive; the sulfur dye is not identifiable from the photo.
rick owens spring 2027 look 43
look 43 · pale yellow tied-and-knotted shapes illustrate the chemical-yellow “delicate negligee” phelps describes, and why it reads as alien to the season’s bra tops.

images: gorunway via vogue runway · read nicole phelps’s review ↗

02 / schiaparelli

the schiap jacket, after dark.

nicole phelps found a nightclub set, chandeliers and daniel roseberry building the show around the schiap jacket: everything above the table meant to grab attention. velvet with scrolling black threadwork and pink satin that looks set with gemstones are the headliners, easy to wear with jeans. the more casual side of the business is growing too, with knit separates and stretch cocktail dresses.

schiaparelli spring 2027 look 50
look 50 · a black jacket with scrolling black threadwork over plain white satin trousers is the “plain bottoms, loud top” idea in one look.
schiaparelli spring 2027 look 51
look 51 · bright blue velvet with black scrolls illustrates the rich velvet jackets in the review.
schiaparelli spring 2027 look 52
look 52 · pink satin with what look like inset gemstones matches phelps’s shimmering pink jacket.

images: gorunway via vogue runway · read nicole phelps’s review ↗

still ahead
in paris

earlier today: loewe (5:30 am et), issey miyake (7:00 am). yesterday also brought cecilie bahnsen, uma wang and isabel marant; reviews lead tomorrow.

8:30 amcasablanca
9:30 amlanvin
10:30 amottolinger
11:30 amgivenchy
1:00 pmyohji yamamoto pick
2:00 pmvictoria beckham

all times eastern. the official calendar ↗ marks casablanca and yohji yamamoto as livestreams. lanvin, ottolinger, givenchy and victoria beckham are marked digital, not necessarily live. check the federation calendar ↗ or brand channels near showtime; no specific stream url was verified.

primary reviews: vogue runway, rick owens · vogue runway, schiaparelli · paris federation calendar