fashion month / 24-hour editfriday, 25 september 2026

milan,
past the polite.

marni keeps its oddness, max mara makes utility inviting, and cavalli remembers there is still a club to go to. three reviews, nine looks, and what is actually still ahead today.

01 / marni

the point of keeping marni.

meryll rogge resisted another clean-slate reboot. the awkwardness stays, but it has a sharper grammar: exposed underlayers, misplaced ornament and a useful dose of friction.

marni spring 2027 runway look 9
look 9 · the brassière outline brought the underlayer out into view.
marni spring 2027 runway look 5
look 5 · the jeweled appliqué reads like ornament moved to the wrong place.
marni spring 2027 runway look 49
look 49 · an odd, graphic dress that illustrates the sharpened marni language.

images: gorunway via vogue runway · read the review ↗

02 / max mara

utility, without the costume.

ian griffiths called it "utility luxe." the best pieces make a trench or practical belt feel like a daily pleasure, not an outdoor fantasy. it is quieter than the other two reads, but more usable.

max mara spring 2027 runway look 1
look 1 · a long storm-ready trench, the review’s literal starting point.
max mara spring 2027 runway look 6
look 6 · rose-toned tailoring with shorts: polish meets the practical brief.
max mara spring 2027 runway look 42
look 42 · the bias-cut evening shape softens the utilitarian argument.

images: gorunway via vogue runway · read the review ↗

03 / roberto cavalli

milan is going out again.

fausto puglisi mined the house’s wilder archive: low-rise jeans, hot pants and animal prints rather than more beige. the review’s best observation is that the collection has a club to get to.

roberto cavalli spring 2027 runway look 10
look 10 · low-rider embellished jeans with a camisole: the review’s throwback in one look.
roberto cavalli spring 2027 runway look 13
look 13 · a printed hot-pants look, emphatically not quiet luxury.
roberto cavalli spring 2027 runway look 29
look 29 · a bright printed dress, the collection’s party mood made visible.

images: gorunway via vogue runway · read the review ↗

today in milan

overnight / already shown: tod’s, institution by galib gassanoff, sportmax, blumarine and gucci. gucci’s 8:00 am et slot has passed.

9:00 amsimon cracker
10:00 amelisabetta franchi
11:00 ammoschino pick
12:00 pmluisa spagnoli
1:00 pmthe attico pick

all times eastern, converted from camera moda’s final calendar (milan is six hours ahead). moschino’s new designers and the attico’s tenth anniversary are the draws. no public streams confirmed for these slots; check the brands’ official channels near showtime.

sources: vogue runway, marni · vogue runway, max mara · vogue runway, roberto cavalli · camera moda final calendar · wwd’s milan preview