fashion month / 24-hour editsaturday, 3 october 2026

cut through
the noise.

sarah burton’s givenchy cuts clean through a precarious moment. yohji yamamoto goes the other way, with rope, fringe and a process he admits is suffering. two new vogue reviews, two kinds of craft.

01 / givenchy

balance, cut clean.

nicole phelps says sarah burton wanted balance in a precarious world, and found it in cut: “engineered,” “almost to cut through the noise.” the poured-on leather opener, suits whose front panels overlap like crossed legs and a pair of brass-wire evening dresses are the headliners. burton also treats fittings as two-way conversations with the models, and phelps notes how that shows in clothes that think about how a woman feels in them.

givenchy spring 2027 look 1
look 1 · the black leather dress that opened the show; zippers curve down the sides and the bumblebee-yellow underside shows at the edge.
givenchy spring 2027 look 16
look 16 · a double-breasted check coat matches the rigorously tailored prince of wales check coat phelps mentions; the review does not number the look.
givenchy spring 2027 look 40
look 40 · jersey with thin brass-colored wire curving at the neckline illustrates the calder-inspired wire dresses; the photo does not prove it is one of the two phelps names.

images: gorunway via vogue runway · read nicole phelps’s review ↗

02 / yohji yamamoto

process is suffering.

amy verner calls it a crescendo of process: cascades of fringe, expanses of basketweave, 42 looks and maybe two with pants. it opens with wire-rimmed two-tone spirals and softens into collage shapes with an air of late matisse. backstage, yamamoto, 82, answered her question about enjoying the work with “no. process is suffering.”

yohji yamamoto spring 2027 look 1
look 1 · the opening look: swirling two-tone panels, the shape verner compares to deconstructed yin and yang.
yohji yamamoto spring 2027 look 23
look 23 · white rope knotted down black sheer layers is the cy twombly-like detail verner singles out.
yohji yamamoto spring 2027 look 42
look 42 · the final look verner calls masterful: masses of red fringe over black, a coiling black neckpiece and net gloves, one worn, one held.

images: gorunway via vogue runway · read amy verner’s review ↗

still ahead
in paris

earlier today: junya watanabe (4:30 am et), celine (6:00 am), noir kei ninomiya (7:00 am) and vivienne westwood (8:00 am slot). yesterday also brought loewe, where nicole phelps found ease and fun but leaned too hard on the logo.

9:00 amhermès
10:30 amelie saab
11:30 amcomme des garçons
12:00 pmalaïa (presentation, to 2:30)
12:30 pmann demeulemeester pick

all times eastern. the official calendar ↗ marks elie saab and ann demeulemeester as livestreams. comme des garçons and alaïa are marked digital, not necessarily live. hermès shows at 9:00 am, with a film of the show revealed from 12:00 pm et. check the federation calendar ↗ or brand channels near showtime; no specific stream url was verified.

primary reviews: vogue runway, givenchy · vogue runway, yohji yamamoto · vogue runway, loewe · paris federation calendar